Wood provides breathtaking beauty in its natural state, but that does not mean it will always complement other colors at our homes. Adding stain to stripped or bare wood can reveal the grain pattern of any wood and add depth and color. Stain also soaks into the wood to form a protective layer that keeps water, mold and other degrading elements at bay. When applying wood stain, the battle is often between brushes and sprayers. But what about other delivery methods? Like can you apply stain with a roller?

Using a roller is the middle ground for quick coverage when staining any surface, considering that one pass equals to hundred brush strokes. This makes rollers economical to use on large projects as they rationally control material consumption.

You can choose to dip the roller into the stain or pour the stain over the surface and spread it using the roller. The most important thing that you must do is ensuring that you wipe off excess stain.

In this article, I’ve looked at different methods of applying stain with a lot of focus on staining your surfaces by the use of rollers. Keep reading for more information on the subject of discussion.

What Kind Of Roller Do I Use For Stain?

Rollers efficiently cover large areas when staining different surfaces due to their vast, porous surface. They come in various types, and the version you choose depends on the surface you intend to stain.

For instance, some roller covers have smooth finishes, whereas others are thick and fluffy to produce a more textured finish. 

Before deciding on the type of roller for staining your upcoming project, you must first understand the various options on sale. Here are the different versions of rollers for most of the staining projects: 

• Manual rollers.
• Pad rollers. 
• Texture rollers.
• Specialty rollers.
• Mini paint rollers. 

So what kind of roller is suitable for staining?

It’s advisable to use a 9-inch napped paint roller for staining. Such rollers are quick and easy to use, plus they are economical and perform twice the efficiency of other rollers in their category.

What’s even better? 9-inch napped rollers deliver smooth, and even coverage without the brush marks left with paintbrushes.

Is It Better to Roll or Brush-On Stain? 

If you’ve ever seen skilled painters working, you’ve likely noticed they use different tools and techniques for even coverage. Most people have seen both rollers and brushes in action. However, have you ever thought about why one of these delivery methods is preferred over the other?

Besides their common aesthetic differences, brushes and rollers fulfill different functional roles for interior and exterior staining projects. So depending on the staining job at hand, a roller can be more efficient than a brush, or vice versa.

Let’s discuss the main functional differences between rollers and brushes so you decide on either tool for your next staining project.

• Precision and Coverage

Brushes are more helpful in staining detailed areas on different surfaces because of their compact size. On the other hand, rollers excel at staining large areas because of their broad porous surface for uniform coverage. This saves you time than staining large and flat surfaces using a brush.

However, if you use the wrong roller cover, you can compromise the effects of your staining job, leaving behind marks.

Note: Some staining projects require using both brushes and rollers.

• Holding More or Less Stain

Rollers can hold a greater stain volume at once, considering they absorb more than brushes. This means you can achieve more and even coverage to surfaces with a roller, eliminating the need to reload while staining. Above all, rollers make for a quick staining process.

However, most staining projects need both rollers and brushes because each has a place where they excel in. So when differentiating brushes and rollers, don’t bother to decide which tool is better. Instead, consider the tool that best suits your staining job at hand.

How to Stain Wood?

Wood stains enrich the look of wood, highlighting the natural grain and intensifying or changing the existing tones. They also revive old furniture, bringing back its former vibrancy and value. Wood stains are applied to surfaces using spraying, brushing, or rolling techniques.

Staining wood is relatively easy, provided you take time to prepare your surface properly. Here is a detailed process discussing how to stain your wood using different methods:

• Method 1: Staining Wood With a Brush

Here’s a step by step guide:

Step 1: Start Sanding With 100-120 Grit Sandpaper.

Begin by sanding your wood surface going in the wood’s grain direction. Use a belt sander to work on larger surfaces like wood floors. But for smaller staining jobs, use 120 grit sandpaper.

Tip: Before sanding, fill any dents in the wood with a wood filler that compliments your wood’s color. 

Step 2: Switch to 220 Grit Sandpaper.

Use higher grit sandpaper to rub the entire wood surface while removing the sanding dust with a damp rag. Repeat a similar process with the 120 grit sandpaper: sand going in the grain’s direction.

After that, soak a clean rag in water and wipe the sanding dust. This will raise the tiny fibers on the wood surface, so sand again to remove all the lingering fibers. If not, these fibers will rise when staining, giving you an inconsistent finish.

Step 3: Apply Wood Conditioner

Soak the tip of a bristle brush into the wood conditioner and apply light strokes to the wood. Before that, remember to let the brush drip over the can since the wood conditioner is not thick like paint.

Spread the conditioner in thin and even strokes for demanding results. If puddles form, spread the wood conditioner more throughout the surface to avoid pooling in one spot.

You can attain the same effect with water instead of using a wood conditioner to prepare wood for staining. The process is called popping the grain.

If you prefer this method, ensure you use only a damp rag to spread the water. Also, don’t use tap water because it has minerals that can affect your wood’s color.

Step 4: Let the Conditioner Sit for 15 Minutes

The wood conditioner must stay 15 minutes before staining the wood. But also don’t wait for more than an hour since the wood pores won’t absorb the stain as expected.

After 15 minutes, take a clean cloth and wipe away the excess wood conditioner. Use a sweeping motion to wipe it off, working in the wood grain direction. 

Use higher grit sandpaper for sanding the wood and removing the sanding dust with a clean cloth. Your wood should now be ready for staining. 

Note: Don’t use sandpaper of lesser grit than 220 in this step; otherwise, you risk scratching the wood. 

Step 5: Brush the Stain to the Wood

Stir your stain thoroughly with a plastic stirring utensil to mix any pigments that might have settled at the bottom of the can. Immerse the paintbrush into the stain, wait for the brush to drip, then spread the stain on the wood.

You will want to use long strokes to brush or apply the stain, but don’t bother getting the color too perfect since you will be wiping off most of it.

Instead, aim to ensure you don’t leave visible streaks and splatters of stain all over the wood.

Note: Since stain reacts differently to woods, the color you choose might look different after applying. So it’s wise to test the stain on a separate wood piece of the same type as the one you want to stain.

If it acts as expected, proceed with staining. Otherwise, seek advice on the best stain from a home improvement store.

Step 6: Wipe Away the Excess Stain

Wipe off the residual stain with a rag and be thorough to create a thin and uniform stain layer. Remember, the longer the stain stays on the wood, the darker it becomes. So it’s best to wipe the excess stain sooner because it’s much harder to wipe out highly dark colors.

However, if the stain is too light, add extra coats to achieve your desired depth.

Step 7: Allow the Stain to Dry

Let the stained wood air dry for 4 hours before adding extra coats if necessary. Repeat this twice or more until you get your preferred shade and allow enough drying time between coats. After that, your stained wood should be ready to accept a sealant.

Step 8: Protect the Stained Wood by Sealing It

Protective sealants like polyurethane work well for protecting wood against everyday elements. Once you acquire one, use a stirring plastic utensil to stir the finishing coat using gentle motions.

Avoid shaking the can of the finishing coat because It might present bubbles that can ruin the overall finish on stained woods. 

Step 9: Apply the Sealant Using a Bristle Brush

Insert the tip of your bristle brush into the can of the protective finish coat, and brush it on the stained wood, working in the grain’s direction. Use light strokes to cover the entire surface with the protective sealer. 

Wait for 4 hours for the sealant to dry and determine if you will sand again to add extra coats.  

Here’s a Video On Staining Wood:

Method 2: Staining Wood With a Roller

Staining wood with a roller guarantees uniform coverage, unlike a brush that leaves marks if not used correctly. Use the following stepwise process to roll on your stain on woods effortlessly.

Step 1:  Sand the Wood

To avoid adherence issues, it’s always good to sand your wood surface before staining. So begin sanding your wood with coarse sandpaper to create a rough texture for the stain to penetrate the wood, then wipe off the sanding dust.

Give the sanded surface enough time to dry and apply a wood conditioner to encourage stain adherence. Most conditioners dry within 20 to 30 minutes, but it’s good to refer to the package for precision.

Step 2: Wipe Off Any Dirt from Your Roller

Your roller must be free from dust and lint to avoid spots and splatters in your stain. Use a piece of painter’s tape or vacuum to remove any dirt In the roller before staining. If you have an old roller, ensure it doesn’t have dried stain or paint that might introduce bumps on the finish.

Step 3: Don’t Use Excess Stain

Loading your roller with too much stain can present harsh lines. So pour your stain into a clean dish and dip your roller inside. Roll your roller onto the dish grooves to squeeze out the excess stain before putting it on the wood.

However, don’t squeeze out too much stain, as too little can make your stain job streaky.

Tip: You must not see any dripping stain when you remove the roller from the dish. Additionally, if you mix the stain in a 5-gallon bucket, begin by inserting a roller screen into the bucket.

This fulfills a similar purpose as the angled portion of your dish, removing the dripping stain from the roller.

Step 4: Apply the Stain in a W or N Pattern

Experienced painters apply the stains up and down in vertical lines. But for beginners, start with a ” W ” or ” N ” pattern to avoid imperfections. Ensure you follow up each layer with a new stain coat before the previous one dries to prevent streaking. 

Use moderate pressure on the roller against the wood. If the stain starts to streak, you are pressing the roller too hard. 

Step 5: Maintain a Wet Edge

Overlap each coat so that the edges don’t appear too defined. This way, you will avoid streaks when the stain dries. Again, don’t be tempted to stop in the middle. Stopping in the middle of the stain job causes uneven drying. So continue coating the wood until the roller needs more stain. 

Tip: After staining, pull back to check for roller marks. If any, put more stain on your roller and coat the wood lightly on top of the roller marks. Again, examine the wood from different angles to check for missed or thin spots.

Cover these areas with more stain coats and allow enough dry time. You can add a protective sealant to keep your wood safe from the elements.

Method 3: Spraying Wood Stains

Spraying wood stain is the fastest application method, and it delivers a professional-grade finish when done correctly. However, this stain delivery method is expensive because you will use more stain coats than rollers and brushes. Despite this setback, spraying wood stain still provides quick coverage and eliminates brush strokes. 

 Check out these steps:

Step 1

First, prepare your wood for staining. Begin by covering everything you don’t want to catch stain using sheet plastic. Use masking tape to secure the plastic sheeting on the protected items. 

Next, sand the wood with coarse to fine sandpaper. If the wood is not too rough, start with 100 grit sandpaper and change to 220 grit. If the wood is more uneven, begin with lower grit sandpaper.

Step 2

Sand your wood piece ensuring you cover all areas you want to stain. After sanding, remove the residual sanding dust with a wet cloth or an appropriate solvent, and allow the wood to air dry. This will prepare your wood for staining.

Step 3

Set up your sprayer once the wood dries, and wear protective gear: safety goggles, gloves, and a facemask. Next, mix the stain following the manufacturer’s guidelines and test the stain on a spare wood to see how the sprayer works.

Adjust the spray nozzle and the pressure until you are satisfied with the degree of spray. Remember that not all sprayers are equal, so set your sprayer between 800 to 1,000 PSI.

Step 4

If the spray nozzle releases the stain correctly, begin staining your wood. Hold the spray machine at least 12 to 18 inches from the wood surface. Pull the trigger and spray in an up and down motion.

Note; Consider multiple coats rather than over-spraying across the wood surface.

Step 5

Smooth out any excess stain with a brush to avoid blotches or puddles. Add more coats if you still want a darker color. Then sand each coat to create an even texture for subsequent coats to soak into the wood appropriately.

Tip: Once you hold the sprayer, don’t move your body. Instead, only move your hand as you walk the project to get the most even coating.

What Happens If You Don’t Wipe Off Wood Stain?

The natural wood condition can be stunning; however, sometimes wood colors don’t match your desired tone. Wood stain can be an excellent way to upgrade the color and highlight the grain patterns. But due to the great variations in wood species, some woods absorb stains at different levels. 

When you stain wood, it should soak into the pores and grain to color the wood. If the stain is too thick or stays on the surface for too long, you should wipe it for your wood to dry accordingly.

This Is a basic rule for reaping the desired outcomes. If not, the wood becomes discolored or sticky as the solvents in the stain evaporate. This affects the overall finish and compromises the wood in the long term. 

So how can you fix a stain that wasn’t wiped?

You use one of the following three methods to deal with a sticky material on your stained wood. 

• Mineral Spirits

Using mineral spirits is a quick fix to wiping off the excess stain on the wood. Dip a clean rag into a container of mineral spirits and rub the tacky pigments on the wood surface.

The good thing about mineral spirits is that it removes the dissolved stains without affecting the colorant soaked into the wood grain.

• Apply More Stain

This method sounds controversial, but it gets the job done. By adding more stain to the sticky surface, the excess stain will get more solvent that it lost during evaporation. Therefore, the surface becomes wet, making it easy to wipe off the excess with a cloth.

If you have a larger project, wipe each section as you change the rag until you cover the whole surface. The stains should come off the wood quickly. After that, let the wood dry before applying a protective wood finish to enhance the longevity and durability of the wood surface.

• Sand

Suppose you want to start fresh, sand down the entire surface. Use low grit sandpaper to sand down the sticky stain layer. If the coating is too thick, you may need to change to coarse grit sandpaper before reapplying the wood stain correctly.

How Long Does It Take Wood Stain To Fully Dry? 

Most wood stains take 24 to 48 hours to dry. However, some may exceed this range depending on the type of stain, wood, application method, and environment. Fortunately, you can make your wood stain dry faster by setting optimal conditions responsible for drying. 

For instance, you can use sunlight to fasten evaporation of the stain solvents, speeding up the drying process. You should leave the workpiece exposed to direct light for 3 hours for the best results.

Another alternative is to provide adequate ventilation to the object you want to dry. This increases air circulation in your workspace to speed up solvent evaporation for quick drying time.

Lastly, use a hairdryer to blow warm air to the stained surface. The hairdryer causes the stain solvents to evaporate quickly but ensure you keep this tool moving as you heat your wood. This way, you won’t concentrate too much on one spot and risk scorching your wood.

Tip: You can determine whether or not your stain is dry by touching the wood surface with your finger. You can also run the finger over the surface to see if the stain has formed a smooth layer that feels cool to the touch. It should not feel sticky if it’s dry.

Conclusion

Even though staining wood is an involving process, it’s manageable for beginners. All you have to do is applying coats of stain to the sanded wood surface to emphasize the wood grain, making it more vibrant.

You can use your desired delivery method to apply wood stains, such as a sprayer, paintbrush, or roller. Whichever way you choose, remember that proper surface preparation is the key to the mission success of your staining project.